Indoor Climbing Gyms for Beginners – The Complete Guide

What is Indoor Climbing?

Indoor climbing is rock climbing on man-made walls that uses plastic features and holds instead of natural rock. Climbing gyms started as homemade plywood setups in people’s garages and basements, but now modern gyms have taken it to a whole new level, and many include training facilities like weight rooms, yoga studios, and more.

Just like outdoor rock climbing, the goal is to not fall, but it’s also about building endurance, increasing strength, and overall improving your skill. Climbing indoors is perfect for beginners and advanced climbers alike, and gyms provide an opportunity to train regardless of weather conditions or location (e.g., if it’s too hot or if you don’t have many outdoor climbing locations near where you live).

Most climbing gyms offer day passes, as well as punch passes and monthly memberships. You can either rent the basic gear for the day, or bring your own. We recommend starting out with renting, then purchasing affordable beginner gear once you’ve decided you want to stick with it for a while.

What Indoor Climbing Gear Do You Need?

To go indoor rock climbing, you’ll need climbing shoes, chalk and a chalk bag, and a harness. This gear can be rented at the facility for the day for a small fee or you can bring your own.

Climbing Shoes

Rock climbing shoes are small, compact shoes that you don’t usually wear socks with. That being said, if you’re renting shoes it’s totally cool to wear socks, especially since you’re sharing foot sweat with who knows how many other people. The shoes will feel like they’re about half a size too small, which should feel mildly uncomfortable but not painful. The idea is that you don’t want excess shoe on your foot, and that will help you feel and traverse the wall more effectively.

If you’re only going to the gym a few times here and there, you may prefer to just rent the standard equipment they provide on site. But if you’re trying to get into the sport, the first main purchase you’ll need to acquire is climbing shoes. Start out with entry level models that have a mostly flat sole and are snug but comfortable. If you’re someone who’s progressing quickly, you may try a more advanced shoe with a slight downturn (banana-shaped) and tight fit so you can grow into them more.

Chalk and Chalk Bags

Chalk helps keep your hands dry and sweat-free so you can maintain better friction and a stronger grip. Most climbers opt for a chalk bag that hangs on your backside – that way you can re-apply as needed as you ascend up the wall. If you’re bouldering, you may enjoy a chalk bucket, which has a wider opening and will stay on the ground for access in between sends.

As for the chalk itself, you can have loose chalk, chalk balls or socks, or the newer invention of liquid chalk. Loose chalk is easiest but can be quite messy, while a chalk sock requires a good squeeze even though you’ve just tired out your forearms. Liquid chalk can be more expensive but is less messy and can be good for humid conditions.

Harness

If you’re going to be using a rope at all (which most beginners do), you’ll need a harness. This is easily rented for the day so don’t worry about purchasing one right off the bat. All harnesses pretty much look the same – there’s a waist loop and two legs loops. Step into the leg loops, then pull it up so the waist loop sits just above your hip bones and tighten it.

There will be a fist-sized loop on the front of the harness near your belly button – that’s where the belay or rope attaches so make sure it’s front and center. Wearing the harness may feel awkward at first, but once you start climbing you’ll pretty much forget about it.

If you’re looking to purchase your own harness, look at something that’s extremely comfortable and durable. Assuming you’re going to be taking lots of falls while you practice and get stronger, you’re going to want something padded that you can wear for a while. Some of the more expensive, high-end harnesses are more low profile and lighter. They are intended for outdoor climbers who want something lightweight that they can wear all day long, but no need to splurge on something like that early on.

Other Accessories

When climbing at the gym, you will only need to worry about shoes, chalk, and harness. Once you start progressing into your own gear, you may consider getting a belay device. If you plan on moving outside at all, you’ll also need other gear, which can vary slightly depending on which type of climbing you want to pursue.

The belay devices most commonly required in gyms are ATC’s and Grigris. Each has their own pros and cons and the price is quite different, so do your research and pick which one is best for you. It’s worth noting that some gyms require a certain type of belay device, so ask before making any purchases.

What to Wear Indoor Climbing?

You should wear clothing that’s comfortable and stretchy, and nothing oversized since it will hang weird and potentially get caught on holds and gear. Yoga clothing like leggings and tank tops works well. Make sure whatever you’re wearing can withstand abrasion from the textured surfaces and that it’s something you don’t mind getting chalk on.

Pro tip: while this isn’t really something that you ‘wear’, make sure you trim your nails so they’re quite short. This will make it easier to grip the holds and leave your less prone to breaking nails.

Types of Indoor Climbing

There are three main types of climbing that you will see in almost every climbing gym: top roping, lead climbing, and bouldering.

Top Roping

Top rope climbing uses pre-placed ropes that are already looped over an attachment point at the top. This is the safest and best option for beginners and is seen on taller walls. One end of the rope will attach to the climber, while the other end will attach to the belayer. As the climber ascends, the belayer will manage the rope, then lower the climber down when they’re finished. A lot of modern gyms will also use auto belayers that manage the rope instead of a person.

Lead Climbing

A lead climb starts with the entire length of rope on the ground. The climber and belayer will tie in, and the climber clips the rope into carabiners on the wall as they ascend. It’s most similar to outdoor climbing, except that the quickdraws are already placed in the bolts on the wall. You still need a belayer to manage the rope, and this form of climbing is more advanced so it may require a mentor or even a class since it puts more responsibility in the hands of the climber.

Bouldering

A bouldering route is close to the ground and doesn’t require a spotter, harness, or rope. Some say it’s the purest form of climbing since it’s just you and the rock, and some climbing gyms may exclusively be for bouldering. That being said, most gyms will have a combination of both roped and boulder climbing.

Instead of tall routes, bouldering uses shorter walls that are typically less than 15 feet tall and require a short sequence of powerful moves. As a bonus, bouldering is more social since people can hang around the same problem while you take turns giving it a shot. Also, the cost is relatively low since you just need shoes and chalk (and mats once you venture outdoors).

What is a Belayer?

A belayer is a person who manages the rope in case you fall. This could be trained staff members or climbing instructors, an experienced friend who has passed a belay test, or even an auto belay device. Their job is to take up and let out slack in the rope as the climber ascends, that way the climber falls only a short distance if they slip or let go.

Belayers are an essential part of top roping and lead climbing, and communication between the belayer and climber is essential. In your gym introduction, they will likely teach you the terms you need to know, so pay attention and use them properly.

If you want to learn how to become certified to belay at your local gym, just ask the front desk how.

How to Start Climbing and Navigate the Gym

You may opt to do an intro session with a staff member who can belay you and help you start out, or you can focus on bouldering or auto belay devices. Either way, there will usually be an introductory video or presentation that will get you oriented with the gym and their rules. After you’ve signed your waiver, watched the introductory video, and rented your gear, where to next?

Find a Route

Indoor climbing walls are marked with either matching color holds or colored tape. This marks a single route and you should only use the corresponding holds in order to ascend. When you’re starting out, you can use holds from multiple routes but know that the end goal is to focus only on one route at a time. Each route will have a difficulty rating and you should pick something within your abilities.

Route Difficulty

In gyms in North America, you’ll use the Yosemite Decimal Rating System (YDS) for sport climbing and the V-Scale for bouldering. These numbers (or number-letter combinations) will give you an idea of the difficulty of the route and whether or not its within your skill level.

The harder the route, the smaller the holds, and it may have a steeper wall angle as well. A staff member can point you towards a beginner area so don’t obsess about learning the specific grades yet, but at some point we do recommend reading more about climbing grades in order to understand the numbers and what to expect with each rating.

Make a Clean Send

Once you’ve picked your route and clipped in, locate your starting hold and end hold. Starting holds can be marked by a tag that indicates the difficulty or it will just be the most obvious hold in front of you. Both hands should start on the start hold and then you should get your feet off the ground. Once you no longer have contact with the ground, you can begin climbing.

To finish a route, you must make contact on the end hold with both hands for at least two seconds. Tapping the hold or slapping it while you fall doesn’t count.

Climb or Belay Down

If you’re bouldering, you’ll then need to climb your way back down the wall. You’ll commonly see large jug holds that will make this much easier, and don’t be afraid to use them to descend. Climb down as much as possible before hopping off the wall, as jumping increases your chance of injury.

If you’re using a rope, then follow the proper steps to belay down to the ground. This will involve notifying the belayer that you’re ready, then sitting back in your harness so you can be lowered down. Step by step instructions will be provided in the gym’s introduction video or presentation.

Fall Properly

Obviously the goal is to not fall, but it’s good practice to make sure you’re not falling in a way that makes you more prone to injury. If you’re bouldering and you fall, don’t put your arms out to catch yourself because you’re just asking to break a wrist. Land as softly as you can, letting your knees bend and allowing your body to roll backwards. There’s a great illustration of this in the linked YouTube towards the end of this post. It’s worth practicing it a couple of times so you get the hang of it.

Tips & Tricks

Climbing Tips

1. Keep your arms straight. This ensures that you’re putting less weight in your biceps and shoulders and more in your legs, which will help reduce fatigue.
2. Focus on using your legs. Your legs are stronger than your arms, especially in beginners. Use this to your advantage! Think about walking yourself up the wall, not pulling yourself up with your arms. Keep your hips over your feet as much as possible so your center of gravity is close to the wall.
3. Learn about the different holds. While it may be possible to ‘figure out’ how to most effectively grip that weird handhold you’re staring at, learning the basic of handholds beforehand will give you better intel and make the journey easier. Here’s a great YouTube video that breaks it down for you.
4. Get creative. Move around, try moves on the cusp of your ability, and be open to new ideas.
5. The climb is a journey, not a destination to reach the top. Instead of having the mindset of topping out every time, treat each ascent as the opportunity to improve your skills and overcome challenges.

Gym Tips

1. Know the rules of the gym and don’t break them.
2. Don’t be afraid to ask questions or for help. The employees are there to help.
3. Share the wall. Don’t hog the best routes and don’t infringe on other people’s space if they’re actively climbing. If you’re not actively climbing, stand away from the wall so others know the route is available.
4. Don’t walk around on the bouldering mats or in fall zones. This is especially important if there’s someone actively climbing, but is a good habit to get into. You don’t want to risk getting hurt by a climber who may fall while you’re in their zone.
5. Don’t spew beta. Don’t offer advice (a.k.a. spew beta) unless someone asks for it. This includes pointing out holds or telling someone where to put their feet.
6. Know your limits, but don’t be afraid to push them a bit.
7. Don’t let your kids run wild. While many climbing gyms are great places for kids and birthday parties, don’t let them run wild. It’s not a daycare center and there are real dangers that kids don’t understand (e.g., walking under someone who is bouldering and could potentially fall). Supervision is essential.

Still want to learn more, including some beginners climbing tips? This video is a great resource and is especially great for visual learners.

How to Start Climbing Outside

Climbing indoors at a gym is an amazing place to learn the necessary skills to get outside, but nothing really teaches you to climb like real rock. Outdoor climbing requires a more in-depth understanding of the finer details including equipment, systems, and knots, so you have to be fully prepared to take on those responsibilities when you move outdoors.

Consider finding a mentor to take you out for a few times, or perhaps a guided service in your area. Just make sure you’re picking climbs well within your abilities so you can get a hang of the new form of climbing.

FAQs