-
BJ Tilden Establishes Wyoming’s First 5.14d – Moonshine
Back in August of 2012, Lander local BJ Tilden finally sent his 10 year project at Wild Iris’ Erratic crag in Wyoming. He called it Moonshine, and suggested the grade 5.14d, making it the state’s first 14d and hardest route to date. BJ talked about the route, saying it’s “…pretty much hard the whole way. […]
-
Rock Climbing with Chris Sharma Down Under
This video documents Chris Sharma‘s first visit to Australia, where he visited the Grampians in October of 2013. He climbed some of the classic routes like Groove Train (8c) and The Wheel of Life (V15) and explored new rock as well.
-
Jonathan Siegrist Climbs Pure Imagination (5.14d)
Pure Imagination (5.14d) is located in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge in the Chocolate Factory area. Previously called the Honeycomb Project, Jonathan Siegrist claimed the first ascent in November of 2010. On his blog, Jonathan said “This route exhibits some incredible movement, and a lot of hard climbing. It’s very bouldery, sharp, and crimpy. I thoroughly […]
-
Tomoko Ogawa Becomes First Woman to Climb V14
On October 20th, 2012, history was made. Tomoko Ogawa became the first woman to send a V14 by conquering Cathersis at Shiobara. After 3 years of battling this problem she finally made the ascent. Originally established in 2005 by another Japanese bouldering legend, Dai Koyomada, the second ascent was completed by Daniel Woods earlier in […]
-
Switzerland 2010 with Carlo Traversi
Big Paw is a V14/15 boulder problem that was bolted by Chris Sharma in 2008 and Alex Megos claimed first ascent ten years later in 2018. It’s a sit start variation of Boogalagga (V13) in Chironico, Switzerland, and it’s become a popular test piece for big names like Dave Graham, Dai Koyamada, and Daniel Woods. […]
-
Invisible Man Project in Hueco Tanks
In early 2011, Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb were in Hueco Tanks, Texas. They brushed up holds to the left of Terremer (8c), Terre de Siene (8b), and Diaphanous Sea (8a+) to create the “Invisible Man Project.”
-
Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio, and Chris Webb Parsons in Colorado
Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio, and Chris Webb Parsons spent some time bouldering in the Lincoln Lake area of Mt. Evans in Colorado. This video shows Daniel Woods working on a roof project that would become Dying to Live(V14) , Chris Webb Parsons flashing Unshackled Sit (V11) and sending Exfoliator (V12), and Alex Puccio sending Unshackled […]
-
Ashima Shiraishi Climbing Lucifer (5.14c) and Southern Smoke(5.14c)
At only eleven years old, Ashima Shiraishi climbed Southern Smoke (5.14c) and became the youngest climber ever to tick the grade. It took her only two days and seven tries, and she sent it in the last hour of a six day long rip through Red River Gorge. During this trip, she climbed her first […]
-
Tom Bolger on Ciudad Del Dios, 9a/+ in Santa Linya
Here is a great interview and commentary on Ciudad del Dios with the man himself, Tom Bolger. Ciudad de Dios is a 9a/+ in Santa Linya, Spain with great limestone crimps and slopers. On his blog he wrote “Ciudad del Dios is the first route that has made me question whether I could really do […]
-
Ethan Pringle Flashes Moonlight Buttress in Zion (2018)
Moonlight Buttress had its first ascent back in 1971 (Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss), first free ascent in 1992 (Peter Croft and Johnny Woodward), and it was Alex Honnold‘s first free solo of a major big wall. It’s had many ascents, and Ethan Pringle flashed it in May of 2018, saying “I’ve wanted to attempt […]
-
Jonathan Siegrist Climbs Moonshine (5.14d)
At the time, Moonshine (5.14d) was Wyoming’s hardest pitch. Located at Wild Iris (Erratic crag), it was the state’s first 5.14d and it was established by BJ Tilden in August of 2012. It packs 9a into only 30 feet of climbing, and Jonathan Siegrist said “it’s a spectacular line.” After struggling over the course of […]
-
Jimmy Webb & Sleepwalker (V16)
After eleven days of projecting, Jimmy Webb claimed the first ascent of what was the hardest boulder in the country at the time. Sleepwalker (V16) is located at Red Rocks in Black Velvet Canyon and was originally tried by Nalle Hukkataival. Initially, Jimmy couldn’t do a single move. This was his second V16 behind Creature […]
-
Daniel Woods and The Game (V16) in 2010
The Game is an infamous project in Boulder Canyon that Daniel Woods first tried in 2008. He came back a couple times over the years, getting stronger each time. He finally sent it on February 10th, claiming the first ascent of the V16. Daniel said “I called this problem The Game, because for me the […]
-
Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma on La Dura Dura
In 2009, Chris Sharma bolted a route called La Dura Dura, but it became one of the few routes that he himself would give up on, saying “I never saw myself being able to climb it.” He invited Adam Ondra to give it a go, and the duo spent time over the next year working […]
-
Uncharted Lines: A Film by Paul Robinson
Released in 2017, Uncharted Lines is a feature length film about climbing first ascents and new areas around the world. “Every climbing reward comes at the cost of a potential risk, but when you are a climbing pioneer, driven by the unknown and unexpected, you are willing to risk whatever it takes for the chance […]
-
The Art of Failure | Alex Johnson Projected The Swarm (V13)
Alex Johnson first started trying this boulder back in 2011 at age 21. She returned in late 2013 to 2014 to work the climb for three months. For some of the time, she was accompanied by her brothers or a friend, but most days she was alone and left Bishop in mid-March feeling lonely and […]
-
Fantasia at the Bambi Boulder with Daniel Woods
Fantasia is to the right of Bambi in Matthews-Winters Park: it’s a sit start with about 25 moves that comes out on a roof and finishes on the last section of Bambi. Daniel Woods claimed the first ascent of the V14, which has since been downgraded to V13.
-
Paul Robinson Bouldering V14 – Jumpman
Jumpman (V14) is a Daniel Woods classic that finishes off with an all-points off dyno. It’s located in Colorado, and Paul Robinson had a hard journey bouldering the problem. He struggled against ten days in a row below freezing, and finally won the war on a cold winter day. You can watch a mini documentary […]
-
Andrew Palmer Joins 5.15 Club
In 2013, Andrew Palmer snagged the fourth ascent of Jaws II (5.15a). In fact 5.15s are very rare in America. There are only 3 of them: Tommy Caldwell’s Flex Luthor (5.15a), Chris Sharma‘s Jumbo Love (5.15b), and Jaws II. The history of this route is a long one. Before it was known as Jaws II, […]
-
Paul Robinson Flashes V12 – Candyland
In the early summer months of 2019, Paul Robinson hiked into Wild Basin to visit the Glass Tower boulder in Colorado. He flashed Candyland (V12), climbed Glass Tower (V12) on his second try, and did the low start to Glass Tower (V13). It was quite the productive day in the beautiful weather!
-
Nova Boulder Trainer Video
In 2012, Lunar Europe came up with this concept for the Nova Boulder Trainer. It quickly became associated with a bad April Fool’s prank, even though this video was posted in June. The only cool part of this video is using LED’s to illuminate certain holds, which is a feature that nowadays can be seen […]
-
Daniel Woods and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17)
Back in 2021, Daniel Woods spent 52 days projecting a boulder problem in Red Rock Canyon (more specifically Black Velvet Canyon) near Las Vegas, Nevada. Jimmy Webb’s Sleepwalker (V16) had its first ascent in 2018 and Daniel Woods was its first repeat in 2019. The idea of a sit start with six extra moves emerged […]
-
Revolutionary Climbing Wall Changes the Game of Indoor Training
According to the title of a recent article posted at fastcodesign.com, “Lunar Rethinks Rock Climbing Walls, Making Them Slicker And Smarter.” Slicker may not be a characteristic we’re looking for in a climbing wall but smarter sounds nice. They follow with, “Few things say filthy rich more succinctly than an indoor rock-climbing wall.” And so begins […]
-
Alex Megos Climbs Lucid Dreaming (V15)
In 2015, Alex Megos took the 3rd ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15), a “next level” boulder problem in Bishop, California. The first ascent was by Paul Robinson in 2010 and Daniel Woods claimed the second, after which they both agreed to settle on V15 instead of the original V16 estimate. On Facebook, Alex wrote: “Feels […]
-
Alex Honnold Solos the Phoenix (5.13)
The Phoenix (5.13a) is a thin-hands crack in Yosemite that Alex free-soloed in 2011. It involves rappelling down to an immediate no-fall zone, where Alex slowly worked his way up the 130-foot crack. This line was first climbed in 1977 by Ray Jardine and on-sighted by Jerry Moffatt in 1984, and it was the first […]
-
Alex Puccio in Hueco Tanks 2012
Back in 2012, Alex Puccio put together this compilation video of some sends that ranged from V10-11, which really showcase her talent in her early twenties. She sent Sunshine (V11), Eckstein (V10), Theater of the Absurd (V10), Left Martini (V10), and Full Service (V10).
-
Adam Ondra Silence 9c
Until recently, Adam Ondra was the first person and only climber to have sent 9c, the hardest route in the world. It’s called Silence in Flatanger, Norway, and it took him more than five years to climb it from the time he bolted it. To complete the Crux 1, he took five trips to Norway in 2016 […]
-
Adam Ondra’s Secret Revealed
In Adam Ondra’s new YouTube video, he shares the secret behind his well-known power scream and how he’s working on perfecting it.
-
Jonathan Hörst sends God’s Own Stone (5.14a) at 10 Years Old
Watch a 10 year old Jonathan Hörst send God’s Own Stone (5.14a) in the Red’s. The confidence and power of such a young man is incredible to see.
